Tutorial: Drybrush weathering

After applying the battle damages, I proceed to do the weathering and painting of the battle damages.

I start with applying the weathering first using the drybrushing technique.
First off is the drybrush. I use what's called a stencil brush (that's what's written on the label) because it comes with stiff bristles; which is important in drybrushing. But any old brush with stiff bristles will do.

Dip the brush in some paint then remove the excess by brushing it on some paper or card board. The amount of paint that needs to be left on the brush should be very minimal. I usually go for the amount shown on the photo below.

When applying the drybrush to the kit, only go for the hard edges. I always use black for my first drybrush layer then use silver as my second layer.
I apply black drybrush on all hard edges.

The amount of paint applied by the drybrush will be up to your taste or need. Most modellers use less than what I applied. I added more to match the amount of battle damage I placed on the kit and give it a really battle worn effect.

Next I add black highlights to areas that I feel will have the most dirt and the areas where the most paint chipping will be applied. This step is not part of the usual drybrushing technique but is something I personally do.

After adding the black highlight, I now add a silver drybrush. I use the same method as I did with the black. But unlike the black drybrush, I don't apply it on all hard edges. Pick only certain locations.

I personally prefer corners, since it is most likely that is the first place to loose paint, and locations where hard edges meet to form an angle.

Areas where armor parts meet is also a good place to put silver drybush since these places are likely to rub against each other and cause paint chipping/damage.

Silver dry brush can also be use on some flat surfaces to simulates light to heavy scratches.

This is especially effective on black parts.

After all drybrushing is done, next we do paint chipping. For this we use a very sophisticated tool; a small cut piece of dishwashing sponge.

Following nearly the same rules as drybrushing, put a little bit of paint on the corner of sponge and dab it into a piece of paper to remove excess paint and find a pattern that you like. Paint chips from the sponge should look like the silver paint below the sponge on the photo above.

The amount of paint chipping applied depends on how much you want to apply and what you want to achieve. I've seen a kit before with half the of it covered in paint chips and it looked like it's been through a sandstorm. I normally just go for sections that I know lose paint in real life. Like corners, sections where armor rub against each other, and areas mostly exposed to mother nature. Parts that are hidden or have other parts covering them usually don't get much weathering and pretty much no paint chipping.

Paint chipping is also a good way to cover sections where actual paint chipping occurred and exposed the raw plastic. Putting paint chipping there will make it look like steel is exposed instead of the plastic.

Next update will be painting the battle damage.