After completing the straight build on the LM-HG Sachiel, I decided to keep going and paint the kit since there very few parts that need painting. I only painted the plastic parts and left the rubber body alone.
First thing that needs to be done is to remove seam lines on the kit. The parts that would need this would be the shoulder, arms and feet.
The way I removed the seam lines is by applying Tamiya Ultra Thin Plastic Cement over the seam. I apply a few coats and just keep brushing over the seam until brush strokes appear on the plastic. Once the brush stroke appear, I press the parts together to create a weld seam.
After a 12 hour cure time, I remove the weld bead and sand the seam smooth. These are some before and after photos.
I then wash the parts I sanded and once they dry, I primer all the parts.
After applying primer on the parts with the seam line removed, the parts now look more like they was molded in one piece.
Base color is applied after the primer dries. The arms and legs are painted gloss black and this will also serve as the final color. The heart and the two spikes coming out the palms are in gloss white. The rest are in flat white including the fingers and claws which are black in the original.
When the base color dries, I then apply some black pre-shade.
It doesn't really take long for the pre-shade to dry, probably less than half an hour. After that I then apply the final colors. For the white, instead of using the same flat white, I toned it down with some light gray. I was trying to go for a more natural bone-like color and the flat white was looking more like bleached bone. The digits on the fingers get the white but the claws are changed to metallic silver.
The reds were done in a candy-apple tone. This is why I used gloss white for the base color. Before the red was applied I painted the parts metallic silver. The red is not purely red paint, its more of a clear gloss top coat mixed with some red.
A coat of gloss top coat is then applied and after a 24-hour dry time, panel lines and details are added.
After the details and panel lines dry, I apply another coat of gloss top coat.
Another 24-hour dry time for the top coat and weathering is added. I only used drybrushing to do the weathering and used the color burnt umber.
A closer look at the drybrushing.
When the weathering dries, I leave it at that and don't apply top coat over it.
Once everything cures, all that's needed will be the final assembly.
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